Get Off the Beaten Path on the Côte d’Azur in These 3 Picture-Perfect Villages 

Escape the crowds and explore the tranquil, historic villages of Ramatuelle, Gassin, and Grimaud, located in the Var, on the Côte d’Azur.

The long stretch of dazzling coastline known as the Côte d’Azur, offers myriad destinations to enjoy its intoxicating combination of sun, surf and seafood. It’s hard to beat those jaw-dropping views of the dramatic landscape and the sapphire blue of the Mediterranean Sea.  

But to experience the full natural beauty and authentic charm of this special region, look beyond big, bustling cities like Nice and Cannes. Leave behind their high-rise hotels, traffic jams, and over-crowded beaches, and discover a magical area which is much more serene and verdant. Where to find such a paradise? Go west! 

Travelling past the coastal towns of Sainte-Maxime and Saint-Raphaël, you arrive at the Saint-Tropez peninsula jutting into the sea. Here, you’ll be enchanted by quaint medieval villages perched high in the sky, their vast hillsides covered in a patchwork of vineyards leading down to natural, sandy beaches. You’ll feel like you’re in a different world and, in fact, you have left behind the densely populated French department of Alpes-Maritimes and entered the scenic Var department.

Here’s a chance to discover a unique trio of charming towns: Ramatuelle, Gassin and Grimaud. 

Ramatuelle 

Go for: a quiet, alternative beach to Saint-Tropez, a local vineyard visit, Instagram-worthy medieval streets in the old town.

You may know Ramatuelle as the next-door neighbor to flashy Saint-Tropez, and indeed the celebrated Pampelonne beaches often attributed to Saint-Tropez are actually in Ramatuelle. No high-rise buildings along the beach, no jam-packed seaside promenade, no rocky beach — instead a long swath of fine, sandy beach enticing you. Here you’ll find easy-breezy options for relaxing on the public beach at no cost, or you can choose among a wide range of beach clubs from casual to high-end. For a top experience, the well-known Le Club 55 offers a chic vibe, comfy seating for sunbathing, and a restaurant known for its fine local cuisine.

Not far from the beach dunes are some of the vineyards that have covered this land for many years. In fact, wine-makers were here long before sunbathing tourists. A favourite vineyard among locals, Domaine La Tourraque was established in 1805 and is still run by the same family. We enjoyed a lovely dégustation of Côtes de Provence wines at their rustic farm. The “Classic” white wine has a refreshing, crisp character with a hint of citrus and a bit of salinity thanks to growing Sémillon and Rolle grapes near the sea, and their well-balanced red wine — a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre — has a beautiful ruby colour and is low in tannins. It’s no surprise that many restaurants in the area offer La Tourraque wines, and there’s even a small boutique right in the heart of town.

If you follow the hills upward from the sea you arrive in Ramatuelle’s medieval town, as picturesque as a movie set and offering long distance views of the neighboring villages. We took our apéritif at restaurant La Forge de Ramatuelle, where we enjoyed a cheese board featuring local chèvre seasoned with herbes de Provence and a ripe Brie flecked with bits of black truffle. At dinner next door, Au Fil à la Pâte served an excellent house-made pappardelle carbonara, and fresh-from-the-sea John Dory, grilled whole and simply seasoned with potato gratin and marinated aubergine. Perfection.

Gassin 

Go for: panoramic views over the Saint-Tropez peninsula, delicious local seafood and gastronomic specialties in quaint restaurants

The town of Gassin, one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, dates back to the 11th century, when residents settled on its high-altitude rocky peak as a defensive strategy. As the town grew, it developed the curvy, narrow streets and charming stone dwellings that we find so charming these days. Gassin is especially lovely because of its long main square, la Place dëi Barri. From this high perch, you can observe the peninsula surrounded by the sea. The views alone are worth the trip, though you shouldn’t miss some of the dining options here. 

Bello Visto is a popular restaurant with an enchanting outdoor terrace and warm service. We savoured the local speciality, soupe de poisson, with its garlic-infused rouille, grated cheese and croutons, and the waiters explained the traditional method of preparing a perfect bite with these accompaniments. No matter your technique, the rich, deep seafood flavour of this tomato-based soup is thoroughly satisfying. 

For a dose of small-town charm, Le Cafe Perché is a simple spot for a glass of wine and a homemade snack, all managed by local women supporting the community — you’ll be treated like a neighbor here. And at the charming shop, Un Éte à Gassin, you’ll find beautiful home decor items, jewelry, and beachy-chic apparel for men and women.

During your time in the area, be sure to seek out Les Musicales dans les Vignes, a series of music concerts hosted at various vineyards during summer and autumn. We enjoyed a classical piano concert at the lovely Domaine de Bourrian. Sitting among the large, oak barrels stacked in their cave, it’s a magical setting for great wine and music. 

Grimaud 

Go for: fascinating history and a wander in the beautifully flowered and quiet streets

Least well-known of the three sister towns, Grimaud is a little further inland from the water and perhaps a bit more quiet. Strolling around this fairy-tale town, you are struck by the abundance of plants and flowers everywhere. Purple bougainvillea climbing the ancient stone walls, hydrangeas and ivy in ceramic pots near front doors, and a mix of wild flowers and palm trees in gardens. All the pretty greenery belies the important history of this village.

Legend tells us that over one thousand years ago, the powerful Grimaldi family played a pivotal role in defending this area, a long way from their home bases in Monaco and Italy. In the 10th century, they helped to drive away invaders and were awarded land here in 973. We’re told that the town’s name of Grimaud is the French version of Grimaldi, named in the family’s honour. Constructed in 1370, the impressive castle was effective not only in defending against military conflicts but also against the plague.

Though a distance from the more well-known, popular spots on the Riviera, these destinations off the beaten path are the ones really worth exploring. I hope you get to discover the “other” Côte D’Azur.

Useful information & links: 

Ramatuelle 

• Le Club 55, 43 Boulevard Patch
• Domaine La Tourraque, 2444 Chemin de la Bastide Blanche
• La Forge restaurant, 11 Rue Victor Léon
• Au Fil à la Pâte, 7 Rue Victor Léon 

Gassin

Bello Visto restaurant

Le Cafe Perché, 9 Place Neuve

Un Été à Gassin

2 montée Ven Terraou

Domaine Bourrian

Les Musicales dans les Vignes

Various locations