Provence is renowned for its picturesque villages, but none is more eye-catching than Moustiers Sainte Marie. It offers plenty of attractions and activities too, making it perfect for a short break. 

Located in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence department, at the heart of the spectacularly beautiful Parc naturel régional du Verdon, the village derives its name from the Latin monasterium (a monastic community was set up here in the 5th century). Sainte Marie was added in the mid-19th century, to distinguish it from other ‘Moustiers’ in France, and honour the Virgin Mary.  

The village’s strong connection with the Christian religion remains to this day, but it’s best known for its earthenware (faïence), which you’ll find in a range of boutiques. You can also discover the fascinating story behind it (Moustiers became a centre of faïence in the late 17th century) at the local museum. 

The beautiful bell tower © Steve Turnbull

Day 1 

MORNING 

Take a leisurely coffee and croissant at the pâtisserie Pépite on the pedestrianised Rue de la Bourgade and enjoy the lovely views of the village, cradled by a natural amphitheatre. In particular, you’ll notice the beautiful Romanesque bell tower of the parish church which dominates the terracotta tiled buildings below. Raise your eyes beyond this, and you’ll spot a small chapel clinging to the limestone cliff face. 

Next, head up the street to the footbridge (pont de Moustiers) and take a moment to admire the delightful waterfall that cascades through the village. Then, visit the nearby church (Église de Notre Dame de l’Assomption). Inside, you’ll discover the altar consisting of a white marble sarcophagus dating from the 4th century, and you can learn more about the 12th-century bell tower—one of the finest in the south of France. Before continuing your stroll, it’s worth popping into the tourist information office next door to pick up a map of the village and help you choose from its range of restaurants.  

The cascading waterfall © Steve Turnbull

AFTERNOON 

Fortified by lunch, you can tackle the 262 steps that lead to the Chapelle de Notre Dame de Beauvoir (the ‘chemin’ starts near the cemetery behind the Rue de la Bourgade). As you climb, look out for the golden star (l’étoile de Moustiers) that’s suspended high up in the chasm. According to the legend popularised by Provençal writer Frédéric Mistral, a knight named Bozon de Blacas was taken prisoner during the Crusades and vowed that if he ever returned home safely, he would hang a star in tribute to the Virgin. Whatever the truth, the star (the original one has been replaced several times due to weathering) has certainly become emblematic of Moustiers, and is recognised as a symbol of gratitude and devotion by the faithful. 

Climbing the steps to the chapel © Steve Turnbull

When you reach the chapel, you’ll be rewarded by fabulous views of the village and Lac de Sainte-Croix, as well as an interesting visit (like the church below, it’s classed as an historic monument).    

If you’re here in high season on a Wednesday, finish the day at the evening market where you can sample local specialities including honey and goat’s cheese. 

Fabulous views of the Lac de Sainte-Croix from the chapel © Steve Turnbull

Day 2 

MORNING 

Visit the Musée de la Faïence, right next to the Mairie on the Rue du Seigneur de la Clue. It’s on the small side (you’ll only need an hour or so) but offers a collection of over 300 masterpieces and a comprehensive history. This includes a certain Marcel Provence who is credited with revitalising the faïence industry locally in the early 20th century after it fell into decline. The exhibitions are well presented too and translated into English. 

Follow your visit with a tour of the earthenware boutiques, but make sure you include Faïence Bondil in the place de l’Eglise. Set up in 1974, this family-run and distinguished business offers hand-crafted pieces in traditional and contemporary styles, not forgetting that each one is unique. 

Marvellous masterpieces at the Musée de la Faïence © Steve Turnbull

You’ll be spoilt for choice again at lunch, but for fine dining look no further than the Bastide de Moustiers. This Michelin/Green-starred restaurant was created by celebrated chef, Alain Ducasse, who came here in the ’90s and instantly fell in love.  

Just a stone’s throw away is the Atelier Bondil (the workshop of Faïence Bondil) which offers half-hour guided tours. But you can also reach this via a gentle walk (Les Claux) that starts in the centre of the village and meanders through olive groves to a wonderfully scenic viewpoint and picnic spot.  

Family faïence – Isabelle Bondil © Steve Turnbull

AFTERNOON 

Boat down the breathtakingly beautiful Gorges du Verdon with its turquoise waters (just 10 minutes drive away), or take a trip to the Plateau de Valensole above the village where the lavender fields are in full bloom from late June to mid-July.  

If you prefer Provence less crowded and cooler, come in the late spring or early autumn. But whatever you decide, the magic of Moustiers will charm you for sure. 

Rue de la Bourgade with its lovely views of the village © Steve Turnbull

Accommodation/Restaurants 

La Bastide de Moustiers (4*): Formerly the property of a master faïencier, this luxury hotel-restaurant is nestled in a tranquil valley at the foot of the village. There’s a gorgeous pool as well as a 4 hectare private park and extensive potager (in the process of converting to organic) that supplies the kitchen. The 11 rooms and 2 suites are very tastefully presented, and the service is second to none. Rates from €305.  

La Cantine: budget friendly, tasty and traditional (French/Provençal) dishes delivered with a smile. 

Coffee and croissants at La Pépite pâtisserie © Steve Turnbull

Faïence 

Musée de la Faïence 

Faïence Bondil 

Boating 

Base Nautique de l’Étoile, Lac de Sainte Croix: 2hr trip by e-boat: €40. Pedal boats and canoes/kayaks available too, plus there’s a snack bar/buvette with terrace.