The Heart of ‘Douce France’: Authentic Southwest

Justin Postlethwaite introduces a new gem of destination that ticks all the right Francophile boxes for those seeking a sweet break: welcome to Authentic Southwest, straddling Occitanie and Nouvelle-Aquitaine…

Think of southwest France and a dazzling array of authentic experiences and enjoyable encounters come to mind all of them epitomising the good life’ that is so admired by all of us who love holidaying in the Hexagon. Whether you’re flying solo, with friends or family; whether you enjoy exploring by bike or canal boat; if it’s music festivals or museums that provide your cultural kicks; or if you prefer a glass of Armagnac to a glass of Côtes de Gascogne IGP… there is something for all to enjoy.

From iconic châteaux, bastides (fortified towns) and historic villages packed with charm, to feasts and flavours presented with pride and passion at market, in wineries and restaurants, the key to happiness is sharing pleasurable moments with those who live and work here.

Authentic Southwest is a unique new destination, located between Toulouse and Bordeaux, that showcases the true French art de vivre; this is a land deeply tied to farming and winemaking traditions, boasting a strong local identity, and whose people are famous for their warm and friendly hospitality. In short, life is sweet here- the phrase “Douce France” perfectly describes the unspoilt scenery and rolling countryside – and the locals are ready to share it with visitors.

1. AUTHENTIC SOUTHWEST HISTORY

Embrace living history by visiting Authentic Southwest’s array of lovely bastides and towns, taking time to stroll their charming back-streets and traditional medieval architecture. Some are fortified and feature a chequerboard layout around a main square surrounded by covered walkways and arcades. There are four unmissable towns to delight in. First, Auch, the capital of Gascony, boasts the epic, UNESCO-listed Sainte-Marie Cathedral, statue of Musketeer D’Artagnan, Henri IV’s house and Musée des Amériques. Next is Montauban, a Town of Art and History packed with outstanding historical sites – including the beautiful arcades on restaurant-lined Place Nationale – and plenty of lovely parks and gardens.

Then there is Agen-stroll in the old medieval quarter with its half-timbered houses, the arcades on Rue des Cornières, and Boulevard de la République’s Haussmann-style buildings. And finally there’s Moissac, with its sublime abbey and cloister and pretty harbour, an ideal departure point for a boat trip along the Canal de Garonne.

Among the countless bastides to spend time in are the hilltop attractive gem Lauzerte and Plus Beaux Villages de France, Montréal-du-Gers and Monflanquin. You can even plot a whole itinerary taking in these and other Plus Beaux Villages de France, including Auvillar, Bruniquel, Fourcès, La Romieu, Larressingle, Lavardens, Penne d’Agenais, Pujols, Sarrant, Tournon d’Agenais and Villeréal.

2. AUTHENTIC SOUTHWEST FLAVOURS

From the Agen prune producer to the purveyor of the finest. AOP ham from the Gascon and Noir de Bigorre breed of pigs, from the Gariguette strawberry grower to the farmer who rears ducks for hearty local dishes (confit de canard!), the bon viveur finds many rewards in Authentic Southwest, and is guaranteed a very warm welcome for on-site visits and tastings. Buy direct sur place or pick up superb produce at market for your holiday rental, adding other high quality produce Lomagne IGP white garlic, Chasselas de Moissac AOP grapes and Quercy IGP melons to your shopping list. True gourmets can settle in at a Michelin-starred restaurant (Pujaudran, Moirax and Puymirol), where gifted chefs elevated local ingredients to next-level deliciousness.

Wine lovers can explore the rich heritage and winemaking know-how of many notable appellations Fronton, Coteaux du Quercy, Côtes de Gascogne, Saint-Mont, Brulhois, Madiran-Pacherenc and Vins de Buzet – while spirit lovers will revel in an Armagnac AOP producer tasting tour, perfect for snapping up a bottle of France’s oldest brandy to enjoy back home.

3. AUTHENTIC SOUTHWEST CULTURE

Culture vultures are spoilt for choice in Authentic Southwest, so why not plan your visit to coincide with a popular festival? Whether you’re hooked on jazz, the Middle Ages, cool hats or Latin American beats, there will be a joyous event to enjoy. Marciac becomes an open-air jazz club every summer with huge names on stage in the Gers countryside – Robert Plant, Santana, Madeleine Peyroux and Ben Harper are on the bill this July.

Love a nice chapeau? Join the happy hat-wearers at Estivales du Chapeau in Caussade, famous for its milliners (you can even make your own at a creative workshop). Or why not step back in time at Monflanquin’s vibrant Fêtes Médiévales, where you can party alongside minstrels, knights and merchants recreating the atmosphere of the Middle Ages, complete with historical reenactments, artisan stalls and jousting? And if salsa, samba and merengue are your thing, you’ll love the Tempo Latino festival of Latin music in Vic-Fezensac, such fun with plenty of bars and food stalls.

Seeking an art fix? Authentic Southwest is truly blessed. Do not miss the wonderfully restored Abbaye de Beaulieu-en-Rouergue, or the Abbaye de Flaran, the superbly preserved Cistercian abbey home to 16th-to 20th-century masterpieces (spot works by Rubens, Cézanne and Renoir).
Montauban’s Musée Ingres Bourdelle, in the former bishop’s palace, houses stunning collections by these two artists native to the town, and Agen’s Musée des Beaux-Arts houses one of the best fine art collections in southwest France.

4. AUTHENTIC SOUTHWEST EXPERIENCES

To fully immerse yourself in Authentic Southwest, get to know the market stall holders and craftsmen who keep the area’s art de vivre and traditions alive. Multi-sensory stimulation awaits in the sights, smells, tastes and buzzing ambience of market day, such as in Samatan on a Monday morning (specialism: poultry and duck) or Villeréal on Saturdays (browse produce against the stunning backdrop of a medieval hall). And don’t miss Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val on a Sunday morning, when a sprawling range of stalls take over the narrow streets for one of the region’s most renowned markets.

In summer, attractive villages such as Lauzerte, Lectoure and Nérac become even more striking as fairy lights illuminate night markets. Finally, if you appreciate the work of French artisans, why not head to a workshop. Examples include the aforementioned milliners of Caussade, those who fashion clothes and accessories from Bleu de Lectoure woad, and the famed ceramicists of Atelier des Loys in Villeréal.

5. AUTHENTIC SOUTHWEST GREEN ADVENTURES

Nature is a playground all year round in Authentic Southwest, where unspoilt countryside invites visitors to embrace the great outdoors for hiking, biking, horse riding and boat trips. Make your way at a leisurely pace through golden fields of sunflowers and corn, leafy glades and forests, stopping at pretty villages along the way. Pick a section of the Way of Saint James pilgrimage route, a stretch of the Le Canal des Deux Mers or the Vallée de la Baïse to feel at one with the countryside. Marvel at endless flora and fauna where the Tarn and Garonne meet in Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Grave, in the Landes Forest or along the Adour River.
Garden lovers will find much to admire here, too: pop along to Palmeraie du Sarthou, Jardins de Coursiana or Jardin des Nénuphars Latour-Marliac and find yourself in horticultural heaven -humankind and nature in harmony, so perfectly representative of Authentic Southwest’s allure.

From France Today Magazine