3 Great Bikepacking Cycling Routes for Beginners in Northern France
Northern France isn’t somewhere most cyclists would think of when it comes to a cycling holiday, but this year’s Tour de France Grand Depart from Lille has put a spotlight on this great region.
Crisscrossed with great cycle routes (800km of them!) that are relatively flat and easy to access, the region takes you through villages and towns full of Flemish heritage and regional stories to tell. The French of the north are also known for their friendliness towards cyclists, so there is no safer region to try a bit of long-distance touring.
For those who have never tried bikepacking – travelling on two wheels carrying your belongings with you with panier bags – here are three easy itineraries you can do in and out of Lille, for your first trip!
Starting my tour in Lille
From Lille to Dunkirk: Grande Boucle Flamande
This is a long-distance route full of history and culture, stretching around 47 miles between Lille and Dunkirk, for however many days you would like to do it in.
Leaving Lille, follow cycle route signs towards Armentières, home to one of the north’s oldest breweries. From here, you will skirt around the Belgian border (or even cross it) for most of the way, visiting many of the Flemish parts of France. Much of the journey is on cycle lanes, cycle greenways or on quiet streets occasionally interrupted by farm traffic and flanked by agricultural land that changes as the seasons turn.
Stop by Bailleul and visit the UNESCO Heritage listed bell tower, then onwards to Steenvoorde, that is full of medieval history and where, if you are lucky and there on the right Sunday around Easter, the annual Ronde Européenne de Géants (European Giant Parade) is always an exciting event to be part of.
By Steenvoorde, it is now about halfway towards Dunkirk. Those who wish to take it easy could plan a night here or nearby Cassel, before rejoining the route the next day.
To continue, the fastest route is to go through Wormhout and historic Bergues, a lovely town to stop for a break along the canals or in a café on the town square. Continuing on from here, the coast will begin to appear in the horizon. Dunkirk appears with a row of flags lining the cycle way leading into the centre, and the route winds its way along the harbour and eventually you’ll stop at the seaside – hopefully just in time for a brilliant sunset and a meal at one of the restaurants along the beach.
Stay the night, then return to Lille through a different route as you wish. Alternatively, continue your two-wheel adventure with the next itinerary along the coast.
To cut this short: Take a train to Hazebrouck to cut about 30 miles of the cycling distance.
From Dunkirk to Boulogne-sur-Mer: La Vélomaritime
This is a stretch of around 68 miles of coastal cycling, although not necessarily all flat roads, so be prepared! The well sign posted La Vélomaritime is a long-distance cycling route, part of EuroVelo 4. This small section not only highlights some of the best of northern French coast, it passes some of the great cities and towns that have been greatly affected by WWII for those who are interested in modern history.
Leaving Dunkirk, the route first navigates through the interior roads of the city before it leads out to the sea at the mouth of the canal near Gravelines, a village that was a former citadel and positioned halfway towards Calais. With the sea now on the right, it is a glorious introduction to what the rest of the ride will be like. Although, the next challenge is to navigate through Calais before the route becomes more comfortable.
Follow the La Vélomaritime signage, the attraction of this route is the proximity to the sea as well as several inland sections through farmlands and quiet villages that gives you a glimpse of rural country life.
The village of Wissant is about halfway between Calais and Boulogne-sur-Mer, so it is worthy of a café stop, check out the sand dunes that stretch 7 miles on either side of the town and visit the local beach that is popular with wind surfers. This is also a good option for an overnight stop with several accommodation options available.
Continue on a stretch of seaside resort towns with some distinct architecture. One particular to stop by is Ambleteuse, where the historic fort along the beach makes the place particularly photogenic.
More sand dunes and fantastic, crowd-free beaches for the rest of this route until one final climb at Wimereux before the fast descent into Boulogne-sur-Mer. Plan a rest day here and explore its ancient city centre and the excellent Nausicaá Marine Centre and Aquarium.
From Boulogne-sur-Mer, choose to continue on La Vélomaritime or, follow the next itinerary and experience another different cycling path.
To cut this short: Take a train to Calais to avoid the industry and airport areas between Dunkirk and Calais. It also gives you a chance to visit some of Calais’s attractions before you set off.
Abbeville to Amiens: Somme à vélo
The Somme Valley is mostly known for its war past, but it is also a haven for nature and wildlife, which is why this particular cycling route will delight anyone seeking solitude and time away from the chaos of everyday life.
From the coast, Somme à vélo begins at Saint-Valery-sur-Somme on the mouth of River Somme. However, it isn’t as easy to get to by train so it would be wise to take a train from wherever you are to Abbeville to begin this journey.
This is an easy cycle route that can be attempted by families with children as well. A route that is almost traffic-free in its entirety, following a tow path along the river for around 120 miles. This segment between Abbeville and Amiens is easy, with plenty of tree shades and quiet villages. There really isn’t any significant attraction to visit along the way, as this is purely for those who find joy in cycling and being among the great outdoors.
What is attractive about this route, is that you are beginning and ending in towns with great train connections, and by the time you get to Amiens, you won’t be too tired to still be able to enjoy everything the city has to offer. From its famous Cathedral to the house of Jules Verne, there is a lot of history and culture to soak in.
From here, hop on a train to return to Lille, where the adventure began to return your bike and pick up your stored luggage, or choose to keep going! For there are plenty more cycle ways in northern France to explore…
LES INFOS
How to get there
Lille is a quick 1.5 hours Eurostar journey from London St Pancras, or an hour’s train from Paris.
Hiring a bike
Ch’tis Voyages a Velo has great quality bikes and bike bags to rent, delivery to your hotel Lille along with GPS directions for self-guided tours or, if you fancy, guided tours are available as well. (chtisvoyagesavelo.com)
A great cycle tourism resource
Visit en.francevelotourisme.com. This is a great resource to plan cycling journey across France, including list of hotels and bike services that are labelled ‘Accueil Vélo’ – Cyclists Welcome!
Lead photo credit : Traffic free Somme Valley Route
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