From a museum under the water and a morgue-turned-art-gallery to a monastery on an island, there’s more to Cannes than just its film festival.

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Snorkelling in the waters around Cannes, you’re almost as likely to spot a film star as you are a fish. No big deal in a city where the glitterati are ten a penny. What might come as rather more of a surprise, however, is finding yourself face to face with an enormous stone head, some ten tonnes in weight and two metres high. Submerged at a depth of three to five metres, just off the nearby island of Sainte-Marguerite, these giant underwater artworks were created by the British sculptor Jason de Caires Taylor. Installed in 2021, and based on actual Cannes residents, the six serene faces have an almost other-worldly quality. On a more prosaic level, they also provide an important boost to biodiversity by creating a refuge for aquatic life.

While it’s true that this underwater eco-museum is one of the more unusual features around Cannes, it is by no means the only one. In fact, there’s a whole lot more to this glitziest of cities than first meets the eye.

A star is born

Originally just a small fishing village, Cannes become a favourite with wealthy, well-heeled holidaymakers in the 1800s. The connection with cinema began when the inaugural film festival was held here in 1946. An immediate hit, it continued to grow in popularity and, before long, the city had become a worldwide emblem of the film industry.

Almost a victim of its own success, however, Cannes’ film festival has become so famous, it has eclipsed practically everything else. Well, not forgetting the fancy hotels, chic shopping and yachts the size of small countries. But there’s also a whole other side to this city that really deserves some love too.

Before we get to that, though, even the journey there is a revelation. Unless you fly into Nice, you’ll probably take the train from Paris, and the latter part of this route must be one of the world’s most scenic train trips. Looking out the window, travellers are greeted intermittently by changing tableaux of verdant hillsides, ochre-coloured rock and flashes of the brightest Mediterranean blue.

An ethical retreat

A short taxi ride from the station, my home for the next few days is the MOB Hotel of the People, where the ethos couldn’t be more fitting for exploring an alternative side to the city. This progressive hotel, which opened in July 2024, eschews the razzle-dazzle of Cannes for something altogether more sustainable. At least 75% of its suppliers are located within an 80km radius, all produce is organic and Fair Trade principles are adopted throughout.

The premises was converted from an old apartment building and, such is the hotel’s dedication to environmental responsibility, it kept the original doors and much of the flooring. Otherwise, combining a Californian vibe with Japanese minimalism, natural materials are everywhere and the trademark Zen vibe ever-present.

Epitomising the hotel’s values, it’s refreshing to see that the walls are adorned with beautiful black-and-white portrait photos not of the famous film stars who frequent the city but the people who worked on the conversion of the building.

Every one of them from the builders and the electricians to the furniture-makers-are celebrated in this unconventional hall of fame.

Delving in history

So, where best to begin our exploration of Cannes without the clichés? Well, there can be few places better than the old quarter of Le Suquet, the historic heart of the city, with its cobbled streets, fishermen’s houses and 17th-century hilltop church. Just next to the latter is the quirky Musée des Explorations du Monde, housed in a medieval castle once belonging to the Lérins monks. Here can be found everything from shamanic artefacts and Iranian arts to an Egyptian sarcophagus.

Sprinkled with small shops, enticing bistros and specialist food stores, this vibrant district is also home to the celebrated market of Forville. Although the distinctive orange building is partially closed at present while a public roof garden is created, there is also a second, temporary location on the nearby Allées de la Liberté. Look out for local specialities such as the Provençal favourite of socca, a sort of crêpe made with chickpea flour.

Perhaps the most unexpected discovery in this neck of the woods, however, is the art gallery that was once a morgue. Opened in 2016, the Suquet des Artistes now provides a work space for four contemporary artists whose creations can also be enjoyed by the public. From cold storage to cultural hot spot, one might say…

Vibrant art scene

As it turns out, art is everywhere in Cannes-not least in the monumental murals scattered around the city. Unsurprisingly, many of these frescoes are inspired by the world of cinema, from the stars of the silver screen and those behind the scenes to famous film locations. There can be few quite as immersive, however, as the tribute to 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea in Passage Pierre Sémard next to the seafront, which creates the illusion of an underwater tunnel.

Another must for art fans is the picturesque enclave of Le Cannet, just to the north, an independent commune but still very much linked to Cannes. Labelled a Ville et Métiers d’Art, its renowned street of Rue Saint-Sauveur is dotted with the ateliers, workshops and galleries of local artists. This area is also home to its own fair share of street art. Seek out the fairy-tale-like fresco of Raymond Peynet’s Lovers, which is a favourite with newlyweds, and Big Ben’s portraits of the artist Pierre Bonnard, who created some of his most important work in Le Cannet.

On that note, a visit to the Musée Bonnard-the only one dedicated just to him – should not be missed. To give an idea of its prestige, the museum is a partner of the Musée d’Orsay in Paris, and the building is brimming with the colourful works of this internationally-renowned painter. A short stroll away, be sure to pop into the converted chapel of Saint-Sauveur, where the walls have been decorated by the artist Théo Tobiasse on the theme of ‘life is a celebration’.

Island adventures

Of course, it’s impossible to talk about Cannes and not mention its beaches. For some that are a little less crowded, try the stretch along the Boulevard du Midi. For more secluded shores, and flora and fauna that feel almost tropical, a visit to the Lérins islands is in order. Simply head to the Old Port -also the atmospheric setting for a moonlit market in summer and take the 15-minute boat ride from the Quai Laubeuf jetty.

Famed for their natural beauty, turquoise waters and peaceful setting, the largest of the islands, the aforementioned Sainte-Marguerite, also houses a fortnow a museum where the Man in the Iron Mask was imprisoned. Neighbouring Saint-Honorat is home to a centuries-old Cistercian monastery whose monks run their own vineyard. There’s also a rather good shop filled with their wine and hand-crafted products such as an excellent balm. Clutching our bags of monastery merchandise, it’s time now for us to take the boat back to the mainland and then the train to Paris. While we may not have seen any red carpets, flashing cameras or haute couture dresses, we’ve experienced a taste of the real Cannes. And our trip has been all the better for it.

CANNES ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

Only 27km from Cannes, Nice Côte d’Azur airport serves multiple destinations. There is also a regular shuttle that runs to and from the airport. Cannes is well-served by rail, too, with a direct train from Paris Gare de Lyon that takes around 5h 15m.

WHERE TO STAY

MOB Hotel of the People: A refreshing alternative to all the glitz and glamour, this four-star hotel has an ethical ethos and a sustainable approach without scrimping on the comfort. | Avenue de Lyon, 06400 Cannes.

www.mobhotel.com/cannes

Abbaye de Lérins: For something totally different how about a retreat at an island monastery? Here, you can stay from two nights to a week and the amount paid is discretionary though guests are expected to join in daily tasks. Ile Saint-Honorat, 06414 Cannes Cedex.

www.abbayedelerins.com

Camping Parc Bellevue: Who said a stay in this city has to be all about the bling? For something more down to earth, Cannes only campsite is set in five hectares of greenery and is open all year round. 67 Avenue Maurice Chevalier, 06150 Cannes.

parcbellevue.com

WHERE TO EAT

• La Villa Archange: For those who want to push the boat out, this double-Michelin star restaurant is renowned for its gastronomic cuisine. What is more, two-Michelin-starred chef Bruno Oger has cooked for an array of stars at the Cannes Film Festival. Rue de l’Ouest, 06110, Le Cannet

www.bruno-oger.com/fr.

• Restaurant Panoramique by Le Roof: The clue is in the name at this hip haunt, which offers views over Le Suquet and the Old Port, as well as seasonal dishes and a popular Sunday brunch. Five Seas Hotel, Rue Notre Dame, 06400 Cannes.

www.fiveseashotel.com

• La Maison Bellevue: Found in one of the prettiest spots of Le Cannet, on the artsy Rue Saint-Sauveur, this Mediterranean restaurant has a welcome as warm as its sunny terrace. 314 Rue Saint-Sauveur, Place Bellevue, 06110, Le Cannet

lamaisonbellevue.com

TOURIST INFORMATION

• Cannes Tourist Office, Palais des Festivals et des Congrés, Boulevard de la Croisette, 06400 Cannes.
• en.cannes-france.com/cannes-tourist-office
• Le Cannet Tourist Office, 73 Avenue du Campon, 06110 Le Cannet.
• lecannet-tourisme.fr/fr

From France Today Magazine