There are places so atmospheric that tales and legends are born out of the landscape. The Brocéliande forest is one such place, complete with mist-shrouded lakes and spooky castles.  

📢 As you scroll through the beautiful images, why not listen to our narrated article? It’s a great way for France Today Members to dive deeper into the story while enjoying the visuals. We hope you love this experience, and we’d love to hear what you think—feel free to share your thoughts in the comments below! Happy listening!

Lake of Vivien, lady of the lake

Long associated with the Arthurian legends, Merlin, Morgan le Fay and the Lady of the Lake all make an appearance in what is now known as la forêt de Paimpont in Brittany. In the Valley of No-Return, Morgan le Fay, furious at finding her lover with another, is said to have cast a spell on all unfaithful men who entered the forest, trapping them for eternity. Only Lancelot with his pure heart could break the spell, but beware modern travellers – who knows if the enchantress still wields power? 

Chateau de Comper sign

Other vengeful fairies are also at large in a lake whose waters were ‘white and clear as silver’ – but it is unclear what form their vengeance takes.    

Chateau de Comper

In the north of the forest, next to the château de Comper, lies another stretch of water, home to the more benign Lady of the Lake. She lives below the waters in a crystal palace built by Merlin. The palace is not visible to mere mortals but looking across the still waters it is easy to imagine ‘an arm clothed in white samite, mystic, wonderful’ reaching up to catch Arthur’s sword Excalibur. The château now houses le centre de l’Imaginaire Arthurien, bringing to life tales of the Round Table and legends of the forest by way of exhibitions, workshops and storytelling. A walk through the atmospheric forest in the company of a storyteller is fuel for the imagination, and celebrations of the Celtic seasons of Beltaine and Samhain reinforce connections with the natural world.  

Chateau de Comper old gateway

Towards the south of the forest is the intriguing chapel of the Holy Grail – here abbé Henri Gillard, an unconventional Catholic priest, reconstructed the village church with the help of two German prisoners of war, and decorated it with paintings and stained-glass windows by commissioned artists. The chapel’s originality – and charm – lies in the mingling of Christian, Celtic and Brocéliande traditions. Thus, one window depicts Arthur and his knights looking upwards at the Holy Grail, the stations of the Cross have Brocéliande as their background, and animals of the forest and even Morgan le Fay make an appearance.   

abbe Henri Gillard

Just as the forest has inspired the imagination, megalithic stones and outcrops of rock have acquired their own legends. A schist rock veined with quartz is Merlin’s seat and a neolithic site surrounded by twelve red-schist rocks is known as the Druids’ tomb. The Druids were also busy at the Fountain of Youth dispensing rejuvenating powers – all that was needed was to turn up at midnight barefoot on the day of the summer solstice, drink a bowl of pure fountain water – oh, and to have lived a life of perfection! 

Inside the church

Trees too have their stories. Le chêne des rues Eon (sometimes referred to as le chêne de Guillotin) measuring 10 metres round, is between 800 and 1000 years old. Its claim to fame is as a hiding place for a cache of gold hidden by the forest’s very own Robin Hood, Eon de l’Etoile, and for a defiant priest who escaped the guillotine by hiding inside its vast trunk.  

Ancient oak tree

But the spookiest of all the places in the forest is possibly the medieval château de Trécesson, often claimed to be the most haunted castle in France. The most chilling of the tales is that of the White Lady – one night a poacher was disturbed by the sound of a carriage stopping close by, and to his horror saw a young woman dressed all in white (seemingly a bridal gown) being buried alive. The poacher ran for help, but, alas, he was too late.

Chateau de Trecesson

The veil and headdress can be seen today in the chapel – and they do invoke a shiver or two. One of the bedrooms in the château is haunted by a rowdy card game which ends badly – the cries and shouts of the players can be heard as pistols are drawn. Add to this the ghosts of a former lord and his wife, separated by a journey to the Holy land, wandering together on the edge of the forest; a headless priest; and la dame blanche floating above the moat and a visit to the château will not be a lonely affair!   

Bride’s veil

Traveller Information 

Le Centre de L’Imaginaire Arthurien is a hub for all things Arthurian, hosting activities throughout the year www.broceliande-centre-arthurien.com  

Brittany Ferries has daily sailings from Portsmouth to Saint-Malo    

La forêt de Paimpont is just 1½ hrs from Saint-Malo.

© Shutterstock