Rich in medieval history and full of charm, this village in Aveyron is perfect for a short break.

Did you know the Aveyron department, which lies between the Massif Central and the Mediterranean, boasts more ‘plus beaux villages’ (11 in total now) than any other in France? But if you only have time for one on your trip, you should definitely consider Conques.

The key to enjoying the village (Conques-en-Rouerge to use its full title), is to take the slow tourism approach and immerse yourself in the history, especially its hidden treasures. Using our suggested itinerary as a guide will also help you to structure your stay and get the most out of it. Likewise, check out the tourist office in the centre of the village and their very useful website: www.tourisme-conques.fr

Day 1 

MORNING 

Stroll around the cobbled streets overlooked by timbered houses (the village really does feel ‘lost in time’) to soak up the medieval ambience, then head to the 11th-century Romanesque abbey-church (église-abbatiale) Sainte-Foy in the centre. Before entering, take a few moments to study the Tympanum of the Last Judgment over the doorway, a masterpiece of medieval/religious sculpture. But don’t miss the fourteen ‘peeking angels’ at the top, curious to know about the ‘verdict’. 

The interior holds much of interest too, including stained glass windows by internationally renowned local artist, Pierre Soulages (1919-2022). The characteristically dark and abstract style may not be to everyone’s taste, but there’s no denying the contrast they make. The abbey-church also plays host to regular music concerts, so if that sounds good, be sure to check the programme. 

AFTERNOON 

Take a leisurely lunch in one of the eateries (there are several to choose from) and people watch – you’ll almost certainly spot some Chemin de St Jacques ramblers/pilgrims with scallop shells on their backpacks. Or go to the local boulangerie (Fournil du Pèlerin) and grab yourself a picnic lunch with fresh, crusty baguettes/savoury tarts and pastries.

If you opt for a meal, look out for regional specialities on the menu, including aligot (incredibly moreish creamy/cheesy mashed potato infused with garlic), estofinade, a fish (dried cod or haddock) dish with potatoes, and the emblematic blue cheese, roquefort, made from sheep’s milk. Vegetarians/vegans can eat well at the Comptoir de Germain restaurant, or there’s a decent crêperie (Chez Pierre et Colette) overlooking the central square (Place de l’Église). 

Later, you can work off your lunch with a stroll down to the charming little Chapelle de Saint-Roch. Then, you can descend to the UNESCO-listed, Pont des Pèlerins (aka Pont Romain), at the bottom of the beautiful valley the village is nestled in – just remember that it’s a fairly stiff climb back up! Alternatively, there’s a lovely walk (look for the markers in the centre) that traverses the River Dourdou before climbing to a viewpoint on the other side offering more magnificent views.

If you have young children, why not take them on a scavenger hunt for scallop shells (there are plenty in various locations across the village)? They’re sure to enjoy the peeking angels too. 

EVENING 

Relax in your accommodation (not forgetting you’re on holiday) or enjoy an evening meal in the village, absorbing more of the ambience. 

Day 2

MORNING 

Take a tour of the artisanal/craft shops and galleries, followed by a mid-morning coffee. There’s also a good brocante and bookshop to enjoy. 

AFTERNOON 

Immerse yourself in the medieval history again with a visit to the Trésor de Conques, tucked away in the cloister next door to the abbey-church. This collection – ‘one of the five greatest medieval goldsmith’s works of art in Europe and the sole in France to display so many elements from the High Middle Ages’ – includes the majesté de Sainte-Foy. Allegedly, this small statue/reliquary contains the skull cap of an adolescent Christian girl (Saint Foy) martyred for her faith during the 4th century in Agen. Heavily bejewelled and gilded with gold, it’s certainly an arresting piece. The (theft and religious cult) story surrounding it is very interesting too from a historical perspective. 

EVENING 

Finish your stay in style (if your trip is in the Nocturnes de Conques season) with a return visit by night to the square for the ‘illumination du tympan’. This magically multi-coloured display reveals the different (and deeply symbolic) parts of the Last Judgment sculpture with its 124 characters.

If you have more time, the neighbouring Lot valley is within easy reach offering more historical sights and activities, including canoeing and wine tasting.

Finally, in case you were wondering, Rouerge is the old name for the region. But the village is proudly part of Aveyron now. It also has much to be proud about.

SELECTED ACCOMMODATION 

• Moulin de Cambelong (4* hotel/restaurant)

• Chambre d’hôtes Alice et Charles (linked to Comptoir de Germain restaurant)