Prepare to be amazed as you enter this remarkable cathedral in the Tarn département

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It’s safe to say that there is no more contrasting cathedral in France than the one at Albi, capital of the Tarn region. The cathédrale Sainte-Cécile, to give it its full title, has an austere, Southern Gothic exterior that makes it look more like a fortress than a spiritual site, but the richly decorated interior is altogether different.

Built during the late 13th-century at the instigation of Bishop of Albi, Bernard de Castanet (1240-1317), the red brick cathedral was designed not only for religious purposes, but also to send a clear signal of authority from the Catholic Church. This followed the ruthless suppression of the heretical Cathars in the Languedoc (known as the Albigensian Crusade), culminating in the siege of Montségur (1243-44) where an estimated 200 of them were burnt at the stake.

Today, following extensive development of the exterior and interior over the centuries, the cathedral is the core attraction in the Episcopal City of Albi, a UNESCO world heritage site offering ‘exceptional’ cultural/architectural interest. As you enter, you’re immediately confronted by the fabulously ornate decoration which includes dazzling geometric/trompe l’oeil patterns and extends to practically every square inch (18,500 m² to be more exact) of the walls and ceilings. In fact, Sainte-Cécile claims to have ‘the most painted’ interior of any cathedral in Europe. Look up to the vaulting and you’ll be struck by the vibrant colours of indigo (representing the sky) and gold, highlighting the breathtakingly beautiful embellishment. This is all testament to the skills of Italian fresco painters from the Renaissance who took just 3 years (1509-12) to complete the work. 

The grandiose theme continues with a vast (and remarkably well preserved) mural of the Last Judgment spanning the nave’s western wall. However, the tone here is much darker. Created by unknown Flemish artists, the painting depicts the hellishly horrific consequences of sin in a style that is strongly reminiscent of Hieronymus Bosch. Of course, it shows the righteous ascending to Heaven too, as well as the religious hierarchy of angels, apostles and other blessed (but more worldly) beings. Ironically, though, the central portion containing Christ and the sin of avarice was removed in the 16th-century to make way for a new chapel. Above the mural sits the cathedral’s classical organ which dates from the 18th-century and is considered to be one of the finest in France.  

At the opposite end of the nave you’ll find the (15th-century) rood screen, an intricately carved stone partition, prefigured by the ‘baldequin’ entrance to the cathedral. To get the full experience of the interior, it’s well worth paying the modest fee to explore the area beyond this which includes the Great Choir (Grand Choeur) and Treasury (Trésor). In the Choir, you’ll discover further splendid stonework, seemingly as delicate as lace, as well as a (recently restored) polychrome statue of Sainte-Cécile, the patron saint of music/musicians. In the surrounding corridor (ambulatory) there are many more statues, the product of Burgundian masters.

The Treasury, at the top of a spiral staircase, is divided into two spaces and holds a number of fascinating exhibits including a facsimile of the Mappa Mundi, one of the ‘two oldest known representations of the inhabited world as it was perceived in the 8th-century’ (the other is in the Vatican). You’ll also find a remarkable 14th-century painted wooden panel/polyptych of the Madonna and Child, and relics of various saints including Sainte-Cécile.

If you have time, there is much more of interest inside the cathedral and the bonus is you can visit the Berbie Palace (former bishops’ palace) and Toulouse-Lautrec museum which are right next door. Plus, just 10 minutes’ walk towards the centre of town are the gardens (jardin du Cloître) of the collégiale Saint-Salvi, a delightfully tranquil spot to reflect on your tour, not least the magnificent interior of the cathedral.

Further Information

Admission:  

• Nave: free 
• Choir/Treasury: adults €6; free for persons of reduced mobility and their assistants; audio-guides provided
• Visiting hours: 10:00 – 18:00 Mon-Sat throughout the year; Sun: 13:00 to 17:30 
• NB no photos are allowed during a service.
• Albi City Pass: €15, includes entry to the Choir/Treasury and Toulouse-Lautrec museum plus ‘skip the queue’ facility and plenty of discounts with other sites.

Websites:

• Albi office de tourisme: https://www.albi-tourisme.fr/
• Interactive/3D exploration of the interior: https://www.albi-tourisme.fr/albi360/albi.html?startscene=3
• Represenations of Saint Cécile in the cathedral: https://cathedrale-albi.com/les-representations-de-sainte-cecile-dans-la-cathedrale-dalbi/