The Art of the French ‘C’est Comme ça’

Justin Postlethwaite says it is far better to embrace the quirks of French life, if only for the sake of one’s blood pressure.

The notorious Gallic shrug of insouciance that says ‘c’est comme ça’ (that’s the way it is) is in equal parts utterly charming and skin-crawlingly frustrating. It’s OK to admit this because while we are all serious, lifelong lovers of France, we also have the right to raise an eyebrow at certain Gallic traditions or everyday practices that drive us to distraction.

Some are downright peculiar or irritating – here are three currently at the top of my ever-changing chart of bugbears:

1. Dipping a buttered tartine (slice of morning baguette) into one’s steaming bowl (not mug, bien sûr!) of coffee; okay, I’ve never tried it, but why would I?
2. Having government-ordained sales periods (les soldes) for shops. There is something of the famed ‘Nanny state’ France at play here, though retailers work around this to a degree with special promotions and ‘private sales’ (ventes privées), increasingly popular precursors to formal bargain periods.
3. The price of a taxi ride, which is rarely short of wallet-emptyingly shocking. Doubtless a consequence of the onerous licence fees that taxi drivers are obliged to pay for operating (on average €190,000 in Paris and upwards of €300,000 in Nice), it’s little wonder that hopping in a cab for a quick €7 ride from bar to home is unheard of.

I could probably compile a moan list as long as Les Misérables if I put my mind to it, but it would be pointless – far better to join les français in accepting, nay revelling in, such elements of French life as simply being comme ça. Experience has taught me that it’s better for one’s blood pressure to adopt a more pragmatic approach and simply look on the bright side!

It is equally important to remember that some seemingly eccentric, but deep-rooted, French characteristics can also be truly life-affirming. For example, one field which the French get very right relates to pride for local produce and traditions in particular the long history of confréries (brotherhoods) which honour and promote all manner of food and drinks. From cherry growers in Venasque to Melun’s Brie makers, from truffle-snafflers in Burgundy to cassoulet creators in Castelnaudary, these associations passionately carry out their mission to promote and preserve a local product and its consistent quality. Cynics might call it self-interested trumpet-blowing, but I disagree – they are committed to waving the flag in honour of their forebears, their goal to maintain a public profile for their product so that traditions live long into the future.

Many years ago I was happily ambling around the lovely Saturday market in Périgueux (Dordogne) when I heard the approaching rumble of beating drums, accompanied by some seriously noisy noisy trumpet and tuba playing. As the brouhaha reached the market square, intrigued shoppers gathered round the rag-tag assembly of musicians and elder statesmen and women, all dressed in robes and hats with bold logos featuring their particular brotherhood: honey, truffle, foie gras… some were dressed as bees, others as strawberries.

This parade by the Union des Confréries du Périgord was such a joyous occasion, but it brought the whole market to a standstill – normally a big no-no on the stallholders’ biggest selling day. Yet instead of complaining, everyone embraced the euphoria. They all understood the importance of respecting the confrérie tradition because, after all, c’est comme ça…

Got a French tradition or trait you love or loathe? Leave a comment or tell us about it email letters@ francetoday.com. We will publish the best ones in the next couple of issues.

From France Today Magazine